Blog: Elgin & Swartland, The Cape of Good Wine
Elgin & Swartland: The Cape of Good Wine
Written By: Steven Dimon - January 2022
1) Give a brief overview of the South African wine industry up to 1994.
The first wines in South Africa were made in 1659 from vines transported and grown by members of the Dutch East India Company (VOC) creating a supply station for ships traveling the Spice Route between Europe and Asia. Simultaneously, the Dutch were also draining the marshlands of Bordeaux’s Gironde Estuary. Credited with creating the first South African wines is Jan van Riebeeck who was charged with establishing the colony in South Africa. Van Riebeeck insisted on grape growing for wine seeing the fruitful potential of the land. Previously a ship’s surgeon, he believed wine could ward off scurvy as well (Clarke, 2020:p.9).
The first plantings were owned by the VOC and most grapes were dedicated to the production of fortified wines and brandies; products that would be stable on ocean voyages, were in demand internationally, and could be constructed without excessive winemaking resources.
Van Riebeeck’s successor, the Cape’s first Governor, Simon Van der Stel, expanded vine plantings to over 700,000 (Clarke, 2020:p.14). Van der Stel was awarded a large tract of land for personal use by the VOC and established Constantia, a sweet wine well received internationally. Regionally, Van der Stel instituted limited plantings, barrel hygiene techniques, destemming at reception, and insisting farmers lower yields to improve quality. Vineyard and winery labor was primarily done by African slaves (White, 2020).
At this time French Huguenots escaping religious persecution settled in what would become Franschhoek (French Quarter) and advanced wine grape growing. Debated by ‘writer…Tim James [who] believes that this influence has been overstated’ (White, 2020). Be it Dutch, French, or other influence, 100 years after the first wines were made in South Africa they were being acclaimed in the UK and Europe.
The British took control in the early 19th century and with the Empire’s resources South Africa's wine footprint grew along with production and distribution. When tariffs on South African wine in the UK lowered, production boomed. As tariffs became less favorable many farmers uprooted vineyards for alternative crops which remains an issue still.
Phylloxera was detected in South Africa in the late 19th century devastating vineyards further prompting farmers to reestablish with other crops. During the growth period, post-Phylloxera, was the region’s first attempt at labeling and marketing South African wine regions (Clarke, 2020:p.21). Still today, South African regions hold little weight with the consumer.
In 1918, the Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid Afrika (KWV) formed representing growers, stabilizing the domestic market, and eventually dominating the South African wine landscape. Achieving the desired results to ‘streamline production, centralize resources, and provide stable income’ farmers agreed to sell all of their wine through the co-op at established minimums (White, 2020). Quantity over a specified amount was distilled as brandy by the KWV and sold, removing the surplus from the domestic market. With guaranteed sales through the KWV removing domestic competition there was little improvement to wine quality produced and focus remained on quantity through World War II.
Amid Aprthied embargoes on South African exports wine producers improved quality and made advances including the use of international varieties, some of which had to be smuggled into the country (White, 2020). The KWV subjugated citizens to the dop system, compensating the largely black workforce only in alcohol. Contributing to widespread alcoholism, this system was formally outlawed in 2003.
Created in 1925 at Stellenbosch University, combining the delicacy of Pinot Noir with the red fruit character of Cinsault, South Africa is home to V. Vinifera crossing, Pinotage (Wine & Spirit Education Trust, 2016). Author and restaurateur, Kevin Zraly notes that Pinotage’s profile swings from ‘insipid' to ‘full-bodied [and] luscious’ and is rarely planted outside South Africa (2018:p.315).
The Wine of Origin (WO) system, comparable to the United States AVA, and French AOC, was established in 1973 organizing the country’s wine regions by geographical and political boundaries, and narrowly by soil and climate. Printing any region on a label requires 100% of grapes used to be grown therein. Many South African regions haven’t earned a following or garner attention, therefore, don’t warrant labeling pedigree. This allows winemakers to label with a broad regional indicator and freedom to source fruit from more vineyards. The WO system covers only certain varieties, but unlike the French AOC, does not regulate growing, or winemaking practices (South African Wine Industry and Systems, 2016).
2) Discuss the emergence of Elgin and Swartland in recent years, comparing their positions within the South African wine industry. Make particular reference to developments in grape growing and winemaking practices in these two regions.
In 1994, Apartheid ended birthing South Africa’s democratic transition. Since then South Africa is ‘in the midst of a significant renaissance [due to] a new generation of winemakers’ (Robinson, 2015:p.685) ‘making up for lost time [whose] wines have improved dramatically’ (Zraly, 2018:p.314) through ‘the rediscovery of certain regions whose potential had long been overlooked’ (Robinson, 2015:p.685). Example regions being Elgin and Swartland where the concept of low intervention wines and terroir expression put the winemaker in the role of conduit heralding the fruit to its final unedited actualization as wine.
The South African wine region surrounds the 45th parallel south. The Mediterranean climate on the edge of the continent is cooled by oceans on two sides, proximity to Antarctica, and the Benguela current, moving ocean water and air north. Additional circulation, reducing disease pressure is southeaster, The Cape Doctor, pushing ocean air inland. Planting rows with the winds’ trajectory, training vines, utilizing wind blocks, staking, canopy management, and trellising among other techniques are applied where wind is a factor. The mountainous landscape provides well draining soils, shade and aspects towards or away from extreme sun and UV exposure.
Southeast of Cape Town in the Western Cape GI and Cape South Coast Region sits the District of Elgin. At its closest point, less than 5 km from the ocean and surrounded by a ring of mountains, Elgin is one of the coolest regions in South Africa categorized as Winkler II. In the 1980’s, the Cluver family were amongst the first to envision Elgin’s cool climate as a region well suited to aromatic whites, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, but at that time the KWV did not permit growing or apply a quota in the Elgin region.
According to southafrica.com, Elgin grows 60% of the country’s apples,
and similar to grape vines, apple trees require cool temperatures during dormancy to properly flower the following season (2012). Unfortunately for grape growers, grapes sold by the pound garner less per pound than apples. Farmers face the decision to uproot vines in favor of apple orchards as has been done at numerous times in the region’s history. Around 3,000 hectares of vines were uprooted in 2020 (South African Wine Industry and Systems, 2020). Some farms grow apples alongside grapevines reducing monocrop limitations such as crop loss to disease. Elgin grower producer, Oak Valley, farm and sell flowers commercially at their vineyard. Diverse farms in Elgin can also bolster much needed eco-tourism dedicating large tracts of land to preservation, biodiversity, and regional conservation.
Success in Elgin comes from working with the cool climate, developing the region around what grows best rather than market demand. This lesson was learned by Cluver early in the region’s development while producing Bordeaux varieties. In consultation with former Managing Director of Château Margaux, Paul Pontallier, Cluver was convinced to shift focus to cool climate and aromatic varieties after sampling Pinot Noir from the valley (Cohen, 2021).
North of Cape Town lies the District of Swartland in the Western Cape GI and Coastal Region. Within Swarland sit seven wards stretching on the west from the South Atlantic Ocean to mountain ranges 100m inland to the east. Prior to WO designation Swartland was the third most planted region and focused on table wine, fortified wine, and sherry. Since the end of Apartheid in 1994 ‘even the hotter inland areas [like Swartland] that were historically associated with bulk wine have seen an uptick in small producers focused on quality’ (White, 2020).
What Rosa Kruger, founder of the Old Vine Project, says are South Africa’s greatest undervalued resource, are 100+ year old vines. Since beginning cataloging old vines in 2002, Kruger’s organization has certified over 700 hectares as Old Vines with at least 35 years of age. The age of the vine and it’s planting date will be included on the label. No other wine growing region in the world has a certifying body for old vines although the term is used widely and without regulation: Old Vine Zinfandel in CA, Vieilles Vignes in France for example. The caliber of fruit produced by old vines is high, producing low yields of concentrated pure varietal character. Left unmanipulated by Swartland’s modern winemakers, wines labeled with the Certified Heritage Vineyards seal from the Old Vine Project are responsible for a good deal of attention earned by the region.
The South African winemaker at the forefront of the old vine revolution in Swartland is Eben Sadie. Having traveled the old world experiencing old vines, Sadie turned his focus towards South Africa’s old vine resources crafting wines of quality not seen before from Swartland fruit garnering international attention. As respected as Swartland’s old vines are, Guildsomm’s White (2020) says they are:
‘being sacrificed for more contemporary grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc…[to independent growers] yield is paramount, which makes extreme vine age and the resulting low crop load a liability. And it is these old vines that are getting pulled and replaced with either more fashionable varieties or other produce entirely.’
Elgin’s vineyards are mostly owned by grower producers whereas Swartland’s vineyards are historically commodity driven, grown and sold at producer/buyer specifications or market demand. Swartland’s high quality production about-face is owed to winemakers who don’t own vineyards. Regionally, resources such as vineyard equipment and winemaking facilities are shared or rented, allowing newcomers to the industry who may lack the capital to own winemaking facilities or float their endeavor until vineyards start producing. The cooperative ideology of the area was ushered in post-KWV and Apartheid as quotas and other barriers to entry were removed.
Twenty brands have formed the Swartland Independent Producers (SIP) certifying board filling gaps not regulated by the WO. Self-described on their website as ‘a group of like-minded grape growers and winemakers in the Swartland working together to learn more and understand better’ (https://swartlandindependent.co.za/). Producers subject themselves to vineyard and winemaking standards, and believe they will produce wines that represent Swartland terroir and varietal purity. SIP members agree to low intervention techniques such as only using native and naturally occurring yeast, not acidifying or adding tannins, and only using up to 25% new oak. Had the WO system instituted regulations it could be seen as a barrier to entry, but as a self-selecting group, the SIP serves to benefit the region as a whole by raising quality levels. A bottle of Swartland wine stamped with the SIP seal and Certified Old Vine would be exemplar of high quality only found since 1994.
Both regions are able to dry farm. Rain clouds are created as cool ocean air condenses over the Hottentots Holland Mountains surrounding Elgin. Because of the cool climate and well draining soils, additional irrigation is unnecessary for ripening. Unlike many wine regions, Swartland cultivates quality fruit in a location typically water-logged and unfit for premium grape growing, however, the Berg River has deep enough and well draining soil to practice dry farming (Wines of South Africa, 2021). River adjacent areas with excess water, nutrients, and insufficient drainage are typically used to produce high yielding grapes for lower caliber wines.
Elgin’s cool climate allows for longer hang time enabling phenolics to ripen fully, acidity to drop, and sugar to accumulate in order to create a balanced wine that does not need winemaking alterations. In an interview, Cluver says that the harvest of Elgin Riesling can be up to 4 weeks later than in nearby areas. (Cohen, 2021). The Iona vineyards website states that harvest can be up to 2 months later than other, warmer regions. Ripeness assures aromatics are pronounced, that there is enough sugar for fermentation, and cool temperatures assure enough acidity is maintained for freshness in the final wine.
The WO system’s lack of regulating the subject, allows for winemaker freedom and choice. Swartland producers have more leeway in choosing what varieties to pursue with a variety of climates, soil, and geography, although some narrow the field through SIP participation.
Although no formal certifying body exists in Elgin, producers such as Iona create low intervention wines adding only minimal amounts of sulfur and native yeasts to prepare wines grown from biodynamic preparations without insecticides. For producers in Elgin the choice of what to grow is decided by the climate and desired final wine. Cluver produces barrel fermented Chardonnay but is careful to not attach oak character to the final wine (Cohen, 2021).
This focus on style and quality over quantity benefits Elgin and Swartland as consumers become more conscious and educated on the topic.
3) In your opinion, what does the future hold for the wine industries in Elgin and Swartland?
Elgin and Swartland will benefit from a rebranding to alter their respective status quo. South Africa’s first rebranding by King John II of Portugal who, Clarke says, renamed The Cape of Storms as the Cape of Good Hope ‘probably to remind reluctant sailors of the riches that lay beyond’ (2020:p.8). Despite the interconnectivity of globalization and access to information, the new generations of potential wine drinkers don't know that South Africa produces wine worthy of their attention.
Efforts such as those made by Wines of South Africa (WOSA) can help reach potential customers through Sommeliers and other industry professionals. At the 2021 TEXSOM conference in Dallas, Texas, USA, my interest peaked in South African wine while engaging and tasting with WOSA Marketing Manager and cited author, Jim Clarke. Because of what I tasted that day, in particular Ken Forrester’s FMC Chenin Blanc, in combination with research completed for this paper, I am an example of the success of this methodology. Touring the brand of the South African wine industry highlighting the quality in, and progress of, Elgin and Swartland specifically to under informed audiences, may reach appreciative audiences with the potential to become lifelong brand ambassadors (Shumaker, 2020). Marketing can be a large expense but the adage, you’ve got to spend money to make money, holds validity even as conference and competition fees add up and don’t result in direct sales (Hecht, 2015).
Although foreign investment exists shown on Zraly’s chart (2018:p.314), added capital, resources, and reach of key players in the wine industry would benefit Swartland and Elgin. Capital investment could create economies of scale to boost production levels while maintaining quality standards. Investors would have to address access to water if much growth becomes expected.
Swartland’s potential to scale puts it in the position to promote a single variety which could help solidify Swartland’s place in the global market similar to Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand which now accounts for 85% of that country’s exports according to Forbes.com (Wells, 2017). My speculation is that Pinotage produced in a youthful, carbonic, light-bodied style has the potential to reach worldwide markets as a new trend.
Creating a robust tourism economy will create regional awareness and has the potential to bolster sales. Low intervention wines farmed sustainably or biodynamically such as those in Elgin are congruous with ecosystem conservation of the local wine trail
‘Green Mountain Eco Route, the world’s first biodiversity wine route, and part of the region’s efforts to conserve the environment and promote responsible tourism...in a complementary, mutually beneficial manner’
as described by Trip Advisor. What the Green Mountain Trail offers, hiking and wine tasting, is the type of experience based wine tourism in South Africa that Carter (2016) claims is the way to effectively reach the next generation of wine enthusiasts.
With little international or domestic demand for South African wine, gears can be shifted by abandoning wine grapes altogether and establishing other cash crops. In discussion during a WSET Diploma D2 lecture (2021) it was postulated that if a product in the market experiences a decline in sales near the end of a Product Life Cycle (Wine & Spirit Education Trust, 2021:p.77) that one of the options to grow sales over time is to remove the product from circulation. If the South African wine industry could be viewed as one product alongside other wine producing regions then one could posit that by ceasing wine production South Africa would free up resources to allocate to all other sectors of its economy to create a winning product.
If the price to sell apples continues to influence farmers to remove most, if not all, grapevines, I submit a departure. With apple orchards playing the role of cash crop, wine growers and producers turn to focus only on super-premium wines from low-yielding old vines, and the highest quality vineyards. Given the exclusivity and scarcity, these wines could be sold at super-premium prices. The success and value of wines from Cote de Nuits and certain acclaimed producers in Napa demonstrate that there is a market for rare and unique wines. For collectors of the aforementioned, price may not even be a consideration. If modern South African winemakers were to accommodate this growing breed of rare market enthusiasts, and not immediately invest in other tiers of production, they have the potential to turn the tides of their industry in a long play through market demand and intentionally inflating value.
Maintaining the status quo can be the future of Elgin and Swartland. Status quo allows for natural progression the industry will incubate. At this juncture that would include topics covered above; cool climate, low-intervention wines surrounded by unaltered nature in Elgin, and communally-minded, sustainably grown old vine wine in Swartland.
Wine consultant Oz Clarke, in an interview with Tim Atkin MW on the Cork Talk podcast (2021) describes the new world as a ‘State of Mind’ in which a region’s possibilities are discretionary and with potential. For the last 30 years Swartland and Elgin have continued to refine and define the wines from their regions. These regions are not wound too tightly with tradition or regulation, and now with a generation of experience to build upon a redefinition can begin, be it a total departure from the status quo, or to stay the course.
Written By: Steven Dimon - January 2022
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